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Yu Kwen Yick has been making chilli sauce in Hong Kong since 1922, and this is the bottle that sits on the table at the city's noodle shops and dai pai dongs. Its secret is sweet potato, which gives the sauce a smooth body and a mellow sweetness behind the vinegar tang and a clean, moderate chilli heat; there is no thickener or colouring, just vinegar, sweet potato, chilli, salt, sugar, peanut oil and garlic. It is the classic partner for pan-fried turnip cake, fish balls and siu mai, beef brisket noodles, cheung fun and fried dumplings, and a dash brightens fried rice, fried noodles or a plate of chicken wings. Keep in a cool, dry place.